HOUSEBREAKING:

A CONSISTENT SCHEDULE
IS THE KEY  

• The minute you arrive home with your puppy take him outside to a spot so he can eliminate (use the same spot each time).  Do this before bringing him in the house.

• Literally keep on eye on your puppy at all times indoors and outdoors when you first bring him home. You may have to do this for a couple of weeks or months until he is housebroken.

• When you are not able to watch him, confine him to a crate.

• Until your puppy is housebroken, confine him to a crate at night. Do not give in to crying and whining!  He will soon learn to accept being crated.  At night, take him out one last time as late as you can and wake up as early as possible to let him out in the morning.  Until he is housebroken, be sure his crate is not too big or he may be tempted to eliminate in a corner of the crate. Don’t’ provide water after 6 pm.

• Take a 2 or 3 month old puppy outside to eliminate every 3 or 4 hours.  The more consistently you follow a schedule the better.

• Key times to take him out are first thing in the morning, after waking up from a nap, 15 to 20 minutes after eating and after playtime. Do not play with your puppy before he has eliminated.

• Watch for your puppy’s signals that he needs to eliminate; the most common are sniffing, circling or going to the door. Take him out the same door each time and  to the same elimination space outdoors.

• Allow plenty of time for elimination.   Use a key phrase to signal elimination such as “Do your business!”  Some puppies need 20 minutes or more.  Walking your puppy on a lead can help stimulate a bowel movement. 

• When your puppy eliminates reward him immediately with a treat, affection or playtime.

• Maintain a regular feeding schedule and do not leave food down for more than 20 minutes.

• Only reprimand your puppy if you catch him in the act of soiling in the house. Thoroughly clean and disinfect the soiled area to remove any odor.

Housebreaking When Owners Work    Eight to 12 week old puppies do not have the colon and bladder control to go more than 3 or 4 hours without eliminating.  Following are suggestions for working owners:

1.   Install a doggy door which goes out to a secure fenced area or arrange for someone to let your puppy out every 4 hours.

2.   If the above arrangement is not possible, set up an elimination area in a confined area or room in your home.  Thick pads of newspaper may be used for this purpose.

3.   At the age of 8 or 9 months a puppy has more bladder and bowel control and at this time the indoor elimination area can be progressively made smaller until it is eliminated altogether.

4.   When you are using the inside elimination area as part of training, remove this area when you are at home and can supervise the puppy.  Everything must be done to encourage elimination outside.

5.   As your puppy progresses, teach him to eliminate while on a leash and on different types of surfaces.  This will help avoid problems if you and your dog are in unfamiliar surroundings or another house.

SOME FEEDING TIPS

Follow the breeder’s instructions for feeding your new puppy. Other tips include:

• Don’t feed your puppy table scraps.  This turns a dog into a finicky eater and can lead to obesity. Changes in food can also cause diarrhea.

• Don’t feed your puppy chicken, pork or fish bones.  These can lodge in the throat and puncture the stomach and intestines.

• Stick to a feeding schedule and feed in the same place. Feeding at the same time helps the housebreaking process.

• If you travel with your puppy bring water from home. Changes in water may lead to diarrhea.

• Bassets are prone to obesity. Don’t over feed your Basset! Some Bassets seem to “live on air” and require very little food to maintain a proper weight. When you look down on your Basset you should not see his stomach protruding from his sides.  You should also be able to feel your Bassets ribs under his skin.

• Don’t be concerned if your puppy is “off” his feed during the first couple of days in his new home.  Separation from his littermates, combined with adjusting to a new environment can sometimes affect your puppy’s appetite for the first couple of days.  Call your breeder if the problem persists.

EXERCISING YOUR
BASSET HOUND

Bassets need only moderate amounts of exercise.  Puppies who have daily access to a fenced yard will usually get enough physical activity.  Care must be taken not to over-exercise a puppy while their muscles and bones are still forming. Until the age of 4 to 6 months, it is important that puppies be allowed to sleep after their play period or exercise and that children understand the need for their puppy to rest. Because a Basset’s short legs do not allow it to easily keep up with someone who is running, a daily walk, with frequent rest stops, is  one of the best forms of exercise for you and your new friend.

GROOMING THE BASSET HOUND

The unique structure and size of the Basset Hound mean a little extra care on the part of its owner.

Cleaning ears

The long ears of a Basset Hound do not allow good circulation of air and are therefore prone to infection.  Owners need to clean the inside of their Basset’s ears once a week with a mild astringent or one of the many ear cleaners available from your local pet store or veterinarian.  After the cleaning solution is applied to the inside of the ear, use kleenex, Q-tips or baby wipes to clean away the dirt. Start cleaning a puppy’s ears as soon as you bring him home and be diligent about frequently checking them for parasites such as mites and ticks,

Cleaning eyes

With its droopy haw, the Basset’s eyes are prone to irritation. Eyes should be checked and gently cleaned whenever necessary.

Cleaning teeth

A Basset’s teeth and gums should be kept clean and healthy.  Teeth should be brushed and checked for tartar on a regular basis. For those knowledgeable with the use of a scaler, small tartar deposits can be carefully removed at home.  Heavy tartar build-up should be removed by  a veterinarian.

Cleaning the anal sacs

A Basset’s anal sacs, which are located on either side of the anus, should to be checked and emptied regularly to avoid impaction and infection. Bassets with impacted anal sacs often drag their rear ends on the floor. Sacs are cleaned by holding the dog’s tail up and gently squeezing each sac. The smelly contents of impacted sacs will then squirt out. Owners who need assistance with this procedure should ask their veterinarians.

Trimming your Basset’s toenails

A Basset’s nails need to be kept short to prevent soreness and stress on the feet. Nails should be trimmed every 10 to 14 days. Various types of nail clippers are available for this purpose.  Your veterinarian will be happy to teach you how to trim your Basset’s nails.  Some puppies may resist nail trimming but with patience and a gentle approach by their owners they soon learn not to resist this important part of grooming.

Grooming the Basset coat

Brush the Basset coat weekly with a grooming mitt. Shedding coats are best handled with a  shedding rake or slicker brush. Gently clean the head and ears with a damp cloth.

Bathing the Basset Hound

Bassets can be bathed as often as necessary with a dog shampoo.  Many owners regularly use a flea and tick shampoo. Thorough rinsing is necessary.  To avoid getting shampoo and soapy water inside the ears, cotton balls may be placed inside the ear canals. Also avoid getting soap in the eyes. Terry cloth towels or an electric hair dryer may be used to dry the Basset.